• Keep up to date with Ausbb via Twitter and Facebook. Please add us!
  • Join the Ausbb - Australian BodyBuilding forum

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

    The Ausbb - Australian BodyBuilding forum is dedicated to no nonsense muscle and strength building. If you need advice that works, you have come to the right place. This forum focuses on building strength and muscle using the basics. You will also find that the Ausbb- Australian Bodybuilding Forum stresses encouragement and respect. Trolls and name calling are not allowed here. No matter what your personal goals are, you will be given effective advice that produces results.

    Please consider registering. It takes 30 seconds, and will allow you to get the most out of the forum.

The renovation and repairs thread

bradsky

do I even lift?
Thought I'd start a thread about odd jobs need doing around the place, i sure as shit know I need help.

anyway, I have a couple to start off


#1) leaky plumbing,

I have this valve thing leaking on the inlet to my hot system, I think it's a pressure release valve, but have no idea.....

I was at bunnings today so I grabbed one in case I got lucky, but it has me stuffed.

20120617_140803.jpg


it is leaking from the little hole in the top, any help would be apreciated,

cheers.

#2) sliding gate,

I am in the process of changing my sliding gate from a swinging gate,

I'm not getting a motor just yet,

There is a drop of about 5 cm over the width of the driveway (3m), and the there is a gentle slope on the length.

just wondering if when I make the slab for the gate beside the driveway, should I keep the same drop (5cm over 3m), or make it level.

also what are the dimensions does the slab have to be (length x width x depth)


cheers,


I am a tight arse, I will go to the ends of the earth not to pay for anything, ever! :D:D:D:D:D
 
Last edited:
Re the sliding gate bradsky, the concrete beam should be level.
The length would be at least the length of the gate itself, 200mm min width and I'd go at least 350mm deep.
 
Last edited:
Is it the valve thats leaking or the t piece where you have sat the new fitting?

Fyi i too am a huge tight arse and try and do all trade work myself, I stopped doing electrical after i got booted though.
 
Re the sliding gate bradsky, the concrete beam should be level.
The length would be at least the length of the gate itself, 200mm min width and I'd go at least 350mm deep.

Thanks darko(z) :confused: .. Does that mean I will have to level my driveway also, I would much rather have the gate run on an angle, if I can get away with it. otherwise I will have to cut a secion out of my driveway:(



Is it the valve thats leaking or the t piece where you have sat the new fitting?

Fyi i too am a huge tight arse and try and do all trade work myself, I stopped doing electrical after i got booted though.

it is the T-peice that the new thing is on,

I have learn't allot about electrical work ;), have had a sparky out a few times for some stuff that I wont touch.

I know a plumber and a sparky, but I don't wanna keep bothering them all the time..
 
that T-thing is a pressure limiting valve.
like this
PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE - by Australian Element Supplies online store
http://www.australianelementsupplies.com.au/products/detail/PRESSURE-LIMITING-VALVE-PL50

dunno if there are newer style ones to replace the T type, but you can still get them from bunnings...
I need to replace one as well, but CBF draining the hot water tank :D

if you are a super-tight-arse, you can get reconditioned PLV's as well, but they are not much cheaper.

main thing is to get one with same pressure (and function :p), and with same threads so you don't need to use adaptors or fark around with pipe length.

i'm sure a plumber can give better advice tho (and I wouldn't mind some either :D )
 
Last edited:
All of what oc said bung a couple olives on each end and tighten up the compression collars plenty of thread tape on all the threads and you'll be fine. Take the old valve to reece and the counter guy will give you everything you need, they know their shit are cheap and heaps more helpful then the morons they employ at bunnings

Bunnies will also refund you for the other two way coupler you bought, they have a no questions asked cash back policy.
 
A friendly warning to DIY'ers

While DIY work is largely legal in alot of work around the house , however there are some areas that requite a licenced qualified tradesman, including cabling, gas fitting, digging up piping and so forth is illegal without a license. It's also incredibly dangerous in some aspects and can leave people liable for costly repairs or medical bills.
 
A friendly warning to DIY'ers

While DIY work is largely legal in alot of work around the house , however there are some areas that requite a licenced qualified tradesman, including cabling, gas fitting, digging up piping and so forth is illegal without a license. It's also incredibly dangerous in some aspects and can leave people liable for costly repairs or medical bills.

+1 especially for electrical work, I'm a sparky and have seen some pretty dodgy shit in my time from DIY's
 
A friendly warning to DIY'ers

While DIY work is largely legal in alot of work around the house , however there are some areas that requite a licenced qualified tradesman, including cabling, gas fitting, digging up piping and so forth is illegal without a license. It's also incredibly dangerous in some aspects and can leave people liable for costly repairs or medical bills.

Propoganda created by electricians and plumbers to keep their pockets lined.

But in all seriousness sparky/elec work is completely illegal unless you are a sparky or shit handler (plumber). I will have a go at almost anything but I am the son of a sparky, a chippy myself & have being in the construction industry for 15 years. If you are going to attempt a diy out of your depth educate yourself ALOT about the job at hand. The internet is a great resource.

Some people are just born tinkerers and bush mechanics more power to em if they are gonna have a go.
 
that T-thing is a pressure limiting valve.
like this
PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE - by Australian Element Supplies online store
PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE - by Australian Element Supplies online store

dunno if there are newer style ones to replace the T type, but you can still get them from bunnings...
I need to replace one as well, but CBF draining the hot water tank :D

if you are a super-tight-arse, you can get reconditioned PLV's as well, but they are not much cheaper.

main thing is to get one with same pressure (and function :p), and with same threads so you don't need to use adaptors or fark around with pipe length.

i'm sure a plumber can give better advice tho (and I wouldn't mind some either :D )

I think the one I bought will suffice, it is a "PSL50" 500kPa 1/2' BSP pressure limiting valve.

All of what oc said bung a couple olives on each end and tighten up the compression collars plenty of thread tape on all the threads and you'll be fine. Take the old valve to reece and the counter guy will give you everything you need, they know their shit are cheap and heaps more helpful then the morons they employ at bunnings

Bunnies will also refund you for the other two way coupler you bought, they have a no questions asked cash back policy.

hey Brick thanks for reminding me about the olives,

bunnings were freakin useless today, that's why I grabbed the valve that I did (wasn't sure what I needed). gonna go and grab some olives during the week and hook this thing up.

I might even head down to reece and get the exact valve if the price is right.



Thanks for the help guys :o
 
that T-thing is a pressure limiting valve.
like this
PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE - by Australian Element Supplies online store
PRESSURE LIMITING VALVE - by Australian Element Supplies online store

dunno if there are newer style ones to replace the T type, but you can still get them from bunnings...
I need to replace one as well, but CBF draining the hot water tank :D

if you are a super-tight-arse, you can get reconditioned PLV's as well, but they are not much cheaper.

main thing is to get one with same pressure (and function :p), and with same threads so you don't need to use adaptors or fark around with pipe length.

i'm sure a plumber can give better advice tho (and I wouldn't mind some either :D )
cheers again OC, I have been looking all day for that picture on the net :D
 
i had to look for the little bugger before :p
pretty sure i did see them at Bunning$ too, but they might be cheaper elsewhere
 
Bradsky, you'll be able to keep the slope of your driveway, there is no problem there. When pouring the mud for the runner though, remember to lay a small slab for the motor if you do wish to add one later.
 
Bradsky, you'll be able to keep the slope of your driveway, there is no problem there. When pouring the mud for the runner though, remember to lay a small slab for the motor if you do wish to add one later.

Ha, cheers oznut. the post slipped through my fingers. picked up the gate yesterday, slabbing on the weekend. the slope is only 0.7deg uphill
 
I am also looking forward solutions in this regard. I read out interesting and informative. Sure this will be helpful for me. Thanks everyone. Especially Oznut, I am totally agree with you.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The purpose of renovation is to minimize exposure from lead-based paint dust that affect the look and beauty.
 
Last edited:
Top