• Keep up to date with Ausbb via Twitter and Facebook. Please add us!
  • Join the Ausbb - Australian BodyBuilding forum

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

    The Ausbb - Australian BodyBuilding forum is dedicated to no nonsense muscle and strength building. If you need advice that works, you have come to the right place. This forum focuses on building strength and muscle using the basics. You will also find that the Ausbb- Australian Bodybuilding Forum stresses encouragement and respect. Trolls and name calling are not allowed here. No matter what your personal goals are, you will be given effective advice that produces results.

    Please consider registering. It takes 30 seconds, and will allow you to get the most out of the forum.
Thanks Timeah, good to know.

Does anyone know anything about servicing needle bearings? Most bars have bushings that are simple to look after (lots of videos on youtube), but there's not much about needle bearings. Are they even serviceable by an end user?
 
My $50 standard bar that I got 15 years ago is still straight.

My $600 Texas powerbar didn't even last the year out before being bent to shit.

You don't need to spend a heap of money.
 
My $50 standard bar that I got 15 years ago is still straight.

My $600 Texas powerbar didn't even last the year out before being bent to shit.

You don't need to spend a heap of money.
Really? Did you buy a real Texas bar??
I seen years of abuse on those bars barely affect them at all.

Interesting.

Tim.
 
Thanks Timeah, good to know.

Does anyone know anything about servicing needle bearings? Most bars have bushings that are simple to look after (lots of videos on youtube), but there's not much about needle bearings. Are they even serviceable by an end user?


Sort of. Like bushings, needle bearings are in the sleeve, not on the bar. So you have to get the sleeve off to clean and lubricate the shaft and sleeve internals.

Cheap bars have lots of slack in the bearing department. You can tell a cheap bar by giving it a shake, the sleeves rattle around. That looseness and gap allows dust and dirt to make their way into the bearings.

My bar has no rattle at all. Helps a lot with deadlifts as there is minimal slack to take out of the bar. Since it's so snug and well engineered, Eleiko say that the sleeve should never be touched. After about 20 years, if it gets a bit stiff you just send it back and they pull it apart for you.
 
A poor tradesman always blames his tools.

When i I was a fitness first they were bending bars all the time (ABC) and they couldn't work out why.

its the dudes doing there he-man t-bar rows in the corner

no no matter how good or bad the steel is poor use will damage them.

another favorite is when idiots load the bar and rest them on the supports of the rack, doing stupid half arsed rack pulls
 
You just don't need perfect rotating collars or an expensive bar for the home gym lifter. Sure they are nice but not needed.

Guys here are probably using the lines they used to convince their Mrs they needed to spend $1000 on a weightlifting bar when she sees them in the sports store for $50.
 
Haha, thanks Bazza! I imagine you're correct. But I want to indulge myself a little, which is why I bought a barbell with specs waaaaay beyond what I need. So sue me. :)

On another topic, I have a lot of spare rubber lying around so I'm thinking of lining the bar catchers with it to prevent damage to the knurling. Too much? It's because I noticed in one of the videos (above in this thread) that cheaper bars lose their knurling where they rest on the brackets / pegs / bar catchers of the frame. Has anyone seen this done before? So cheap and easy to do, wonder why more people don't do it ... or even why equipment does not come with rubber lining. Just makes everything look nicer and last longer. :cool:

bar.jpg
 
Last edited:
Its a problem with cheap bars as the steel is softer, plus the knurl is pretty smooth to start with. Good quality bench press racks have rubber or, more commonly, hard plastic to stop the steel to steel contact. Power racks generally don't have that.

That said, most people don't need the knurling on the outer ends, unless you are a fat heavyweight with stuffed up shoulders. But of course, no one wants their bar to get damaged so just glue on some hard plastic. If it breaks and falls off after a year or so, no problem. Just replace it.

The high end competition racks have plastic rollers which are replaced every few years.

The power rack at one gym I used had set steel hooks, not adjustable hooks. Anyway, squatters tended to rotate the bar as part of their setting up. The hooks ended up ground out by the knurl rotating against it. The same can happen to the bar if it's softer than the rack steel.

Another thing: the tensile strength rating of a bar does not tell all the story. For a start, the numbers can be fudged, such as testing a shaft known to be of better quality steel and using those results to all the lesser shafts. Not that you can do much about that.

Best way to protect the bar is to never do rack pulls. Just use blocks or boxes instead to do the same exercise. That way the plates are the contact point, not the shaft. That and rerack the bar under control, don't just slam it down.
 
Woody, that's great information. Thanks man.

The same can happen to the bar if it's softer than the rack steel.

A situation that should really never happen, unless something is very wrong.

no one wants their bar to get damaged so just glue on some hard plastic

I'm going to use a rubber strap cut into pieces and superglued to the metal. Straps looks like the rubber strap you see here:

Rubber_Straps.jpg


Best way to protect the bar is to never do rack pulls

Didn't plan to. I'll be doing basic bodybuilding like in the old days (e.g. Weider, Park, etc)

weider1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Will do.



Yup, was planning that anyway, simple spreadsheet should do it.


Thing is, I can afford an Olympic bar at $160, which is what my local dealer is selling. I can't find any bad reports about these Force USA-style Chinese-made barbells, but then I haven't read through all these threads yet...

But I am finding it hard to convince myself that I actually need a bar that has rotating sleeves for my kind of training. But I'm open to suggestion.



Thanks Tim, wish I knew which ones are the bad ones!

The Force 1500lb bars aren't too bad if you don't abuse them or leave them loaded up for several days. I have two. One is a little bowed from rack pulls so it makes a good squat bar now. The other has off-set knurling marks making it difficult to get an even spaced grip without a texta and tape. Haven't had any issues with the sleeve assembly. Just don't store them on their ends and they should be fine. People with smaller hands might find them a bit hard to grip. I think they are a few mm thicker than ABC bars. My gym is open to the weather and surprisingly the force bars show less surface corrosion than the nitride black bars.
 
Top