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[Article] Force development across %'s of 1rm (and a bit of rock climbing)

jj80

jj80

Member
This is an article for the nerds regarding strength training.

It has a graph of peak force developed during deadlifting, measured (I think) from a pressure plate underneath the feet of the lifter.
www.homebuiltstrength.com/?page_id=492
Interesting conclusions... Always lift as fast as possible during the concentric (higher acceleration = higher force for the same mass, i.e F=ma). Also, 65%-85% of 1rm is an ideal weight (Sheiko/Smolov anyone?)

It's also a website which is a goldmine for me as I've rock climbed for a number of years, and provides a few ways of setting up strength routines for the advanced athlete.... for exercises other than the bench press.
They're written but here's a video version:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLP-Apl2iK4

Anyone who's rock climbed check this out, the guy is ridiculously strong:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjHfwRmE7NY
If you haven't rock climbed try doing a 1 arm lock off at any point during a chin up, you'll see how hard this stuff is.
 
I remember reading book by elite climber that say strength is not that important after a whilei n rock climbing

it is more gymnastic type stuff
i will try to get a copy for you, there is a good section on psychology that apply to all sport
 
Arm strength isn't a limit once you can do 10-20 good chins, unless you mean very long and overhung climbs. If you mean bouldering though, it can be a limit until you can do a 1 arm chin up or 1 arm lock offs (very very rare requirements to do them but such climbs still exist)

Finger strength is almost always a limit until you get to very very high end climbers who can support their entire weight off one finger or pinch their entire weight with two hands (grab the bottom of a ceiling beam and do a chin up).

Aside from the odd bouldering problem massive back strength and a 1 hand pull up are just a personal challenges, really (especially if your finger strength isn't amazing). Finger strength is another story...
 
ya but even then, well read the book it explains it all :p
i'll see if I can pirate it
 
That second vid was farkin sick. Some of the best pullups I've seen. I hope it's not a video illusion and he's actually 55kg though.
 
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