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Beginner's Guide to Cycling

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Beginner's Guide to Cycling

Before you hit the road (ok maybe a bad choice of words) there are a few basic safety tips that will keep you out of trouble
While this guide is quite universal covering various forms of cycling such as road cycling, mountain biking , tour cycling and any other for cycling that you might take part in.

  1. Learn out to handle your bike and keep control it
  2. Always Wear a helmet.
  3. Be seen wear bright clothing and be heard use a bell
  4. Check your bike, make sure that it is in running order
  5. Plan your route and stay alert for obstacles and or hazards.
  6. Obey all road laws, lights and reflectors

    How to wear a cycle helmet
    1. The helmet should first meet Australian standards
    2. It should not obstruct your view both forward and when you look over your shoulder
    3. Your helmet should be positioned correctly on your head, it shouldn't be tilted back or tipped forwards it should sit squarely.
    4. Make sure that your helmet securely fastened and not twisted, only 2 fingers should be be slip between your chin and the chin strap
Important Tips
This Guide contains many hints and tips but the two most important tips to always remember are

  1. Don't Rush. Start off slow don't push yourself too hard too soon. Even if your fit and healthy as cycling uses different muscles than what you would use in other exercises, your body needs time to adjust and your body will need time to get used to the new types of stress. Start out slowly and most of enjoy yourself and enjoy the ride, enjoy yourself, don't worry about how fast or how far others may travel
  2. Keep safe. More than most sports, cycling can be very dangerous, especially if you’re on the roads with all the crazy drivers out there. In my area, two cyclists were hit in recent months (one died), so I take extra precautions. Ride during the daylight hours, follow traffic laws, always yield the right of way, wear bright colors and reflectors, wear a helmet. More safety tips below.
What Bike to Get?
What’s the best bike to get for cycling? Head down to your local bike store and have a chat to them, explain your budget and what you'll be using the bike for and they will point you in the right direction. You don’t need anything fancy to start with, but stay clear of department store bikes as they are just toys. A budget of just a few hundred will get you a decent entry class bike. As you progress and are sure that bike will be for term long term you may wish to upgrade to more expensive models
The most important to consider when buying a bike and that is that it fits you. To find the right size frame for you, u stand over the bicycle frame your feet should rest comfortably on the ground, and it's most important that you should have enough clearance of the top tube (crossbar) about an inch or two

Equipment
When getting starting in Cycling, you don’t need a whole heap of fancy equipment of clothing. You can get those later on.
Here's a list of minimum equipment to get you started:

  • Helmet. Don’t ever ride without one.Not only is wearing a helmet the law but it also can a big difference in accident. Make sure it fits well
  • Water bottle. Keeping hydrated while riding is greatly important , Get a water bottle with a cage that attaches to your bikes downtube. An alternative is a hydration backpack.
  • Pump. A portable pump in case you get a flat or a slow leak so you pump your tyre back up, Save you from a long walk back home
  • Repair kit. A repair kit contains all the tools needed to repair your bike while out on the would , A repair kit should contain: a patch kit, a spare inner tube(or 2), 2 tire levers, and a multi-tool for bikes, it should be stored in a bag attached to your bike.
Other Equipment that you can get :

  • Cycling Gloves- they are padded to absorb shocks from the handles,prevent your hands from going numb, they also protect your hands if you crash
  • Bike computer. Displays information such as the current speed, maximum speed, trip distance, trip time, total distance traveled, and the current time.. Very useful, but not absolutely necessary.
  • Gel-padded seat. When you first start cycling, sitting on a bike seat can get quite uncomfortable. Overtime you get used to it. A gel seat just forms to your buttocks making for a more comfortable ride
  • Glasses. They keep bugs and road debris out of your eyes, also blocks out UV light
  • Shoes/pedals. A shoe/pedal combination helps with efficient peddling. The combo can either use regular shoes and a cage or pedals that lock into your cycling shoes which have clips on the sole called cleats.
  • Lights. If your riding at night or in low then a good set of bike lights is a must.
  • Racks/Panniers. If you are wanting to transport things around on your bike like clothes or work equipment
This is just a small list of equipment. When your just starting in cycling you don’t need to worry about the others
Bike Clothing
Wear what you feel comfortable in , just as long as it isn't too constricting,that it gives you room to move and that you don't get too hot in it
When you start to get a bit more serious about cycling, you can then look into getting some good cycling clothing. Cycling clothing is thin,light, flexible, comfortable, and made with wicking material that “wicks the sweat away from the body. Cycling clothing is also tight against the body,making you less wind resistant and also so that your clothing does flap around in the wind
Cold weather Bike Clothing:
the trick with Cold weather Bike Clothing is it put in on it layers but layer it on. If you get hot, you can always take off a layer.
A common mistake people make is to overdress which leads to increased sweating. The best form of dress is lightweight layers with fabrics designed for temperature regulation that allow you to easily manage the excess heat and sweat, as well as adjust to the weather conditions.

layers with zipped fronts work best for temperature control as you can adjust ventilation as you ride without having to take anything off

Inner/Base layers: Inner/Base Layers should be wicking layers, they are designed to take the sweat away from your skin, keeping you drier. They are made of Quick drying high-tech sports materials made from polyester or polypropylene. Avoid wearing T-shirts or any other garment made out of cotton. When cotton gets wet, it stays damp and sucks the heat right out of you.

Middle (or insulation) layers: Designed to provide insulation in cold weather and also they provide basic protection when worn alone in warmer conditions.

When out cycling the last thing you wan is to be bogged down in lots of heavy clothing. Modern lightweight synthetic fleece layers provide lots of warmth without the weight. The warmest insulation layers will probably not be needed since pedaling generates a lot of body heat. But it is always a good idea to keep them close in a waterproof bag.

Outer layers: Designed to protect you from the elements such as the wind, rain on in the extreme conditions, the snow. It is important that it is of a bright color for greater visibility , its also a good idea for it to have a reflective material. Wind vests are a great as they keep your core warm due to the wind-proof material that blocks the cold blasts but still allowing for ventilation. The same rain/wind layers you use in moderate conditions should be fine for biking in colder conditions. It comes down to a bit of trial and error to find the outer layers that stops the wind from stealing warmth, while still providing enough ventilation to keep from overheating. Make sure the outer layers you use for cold weather riding are roomy enough to be comfortable with other layers on underneath.

For your legs choose comfortable winter tights that move with your body and is made from a wicking and insulating material.

Arm & Knee Warmers - These are quite easy to pull on and off ,they roll up small and can be easily stuffed into any space available such as pockets . The great thing about Arm warmers is that they can turn a short-sleeve Jersey into a long sleeve within seconds. Knee or full-length leg warmers can be added for those cool early morning rides. They come in great use when the weather suddenly cools or with the temperature differences due to winds or hills.

Headwear - The head and neck lose heat faster than any other part of the body. Thin wool or polypro hats, balaclavas, ear warmers or helmet liners can be worn under your helmet. High The material wicks moisture away keeping your head and neck warm and dry. The extra material to your head you might need to adjust your helmet by adding or removing that padding material. Your helmet should be a nice snug and comfortable fit and remember to readjust if you decide not to wear your winter headgear.

Bike Gloves -Bike gloves can cut down finger injuries and discomforts such as blisters and finger cramps. In cold weather numb and cold fingers reduce your ability to control the bike. You can purchase cycling gloves to cover all sorts of weather conditions and temperature, from lightweight waterproof cycling gloves to insulated gloves. If you already have a pair of short-finger cycling gloves, a set of lightweight, inexpensive polypro glove liners can be worn underneath regular cycling gloves for extra protection in dry conditions. A nylon/GoreTex pair would be ideal for the wet weather emergency. Just pull them on over your regular cycling gloves keeping your hands warm enough to brake, shift, and most importantly still giving you control of your bike.

Safety on the Roads
More than most sports, cycling can be very dangerous, especially if you’re on the roads with all the crazy drivers out there. In my area, two cyclists were hit in recent months (one died), so I take extra precautions. Ride during the daylight hours, follow traffic laws, always yield the right of way, wear bright colors and reflectors, wear a helmet. More safety tips while out riding on the roads are below.

  • Opening car doors. stay on the lookout for any doors that are about to open, and don’t ride too close to parked cars, its a good idea to remain about a metre away from parked cars
  • Lane splitting .Cars will always try to squeeze in beside you in the lane. Under Australian Road law you are legally allowed to take up one whole lane so do it , ride in the middle of the lane, until you can safely move to the shoulder to let cars pass. You have just as much a right to that lane as the cars do
  • Intersections. When turning at intersections , always remain on guard for what other traffic might do even if you have right of way. Be very sure you are seen by all drivers. Not only do you have take notice of traffic in front and to the side of you but also what the car behind you is doing. always remain on guard
Biking and Shifting Gears
Beginners can often be a little confused with all the gearing you find on bikes, what does what and what gear should i use, the best way to learn about what gears suit you is to try them out and see , just go for a ride and have a play around with them all , you'll sort it out in no time. With a little practice, it’s actually pretty easy. Here’s a basic run down of gears and what you need to know:
The Gearshift on the left controls the gears in 3sets the front gears , Where as the GearShift on the right controls the rear gears individually.

  • Left Gear Shift , front Three gears. There are are three gears in the front along side the pedal— there is 3 sizes large, medium and small. With a gear shift on the left side of the handlebars for switching between the 3 gears. Its all to do with gear ratio but that is a bit too in depth for this guide so just to make it simple the large gear for when the pedaling is the easiest, and can go the fastest like going downhill's or on flat surface.

    The middle gear ,is well as the name suggest is in the middle between the large gear and the small gears , its will probably be the gear that as a beginner you'll use most often

    The small gears is ideal for hills. The lower the gear, the less resistance. compared to the other 2 front gears this one takes a lot of pedaling to go the same distance.
    .
  • Right Gear Shift ,Seven back gears. The rear gears are also set out going from small to largest, When left GearShift is on 1, you use the Right GearShift to move through gears 1 - 7
    When left shifter is on 2, you use the Right GearShift to move through 8 - 15
    When left shifter is on 3, you use the Right GearShift to move through 16 - 21
  • Basic outline of gearing. Without going into depth about gearing ration, the basic outline of is to pedal using the large front gear with the smallest back gear while still pedaling fast enough keeping a high cadence. pretty much all you need to know about shifting gears:
    • If you're going uphill and it's too difficult, shift down.
    • If your legs are spinning the pedals way too fast (it's too "easy") then shift up.
Braking
In order to stay safe and avoid obstacles Braking is a major safety skill to learn. A few Braking tips as follows:

  • Down hills braking . When going downhill's you first reaction will be to ride the brakes , but this isn't the best way to brake when going down hills as the brake pad could burn out. The best way to brake is by quick short bursts of braking .
  • Front brakes. Use the front brake simultaneously and in combination with the back brake to slow you down. But don't pull too hard on the front brake or you'll go over the handlebars. if you feel the back wheel lifting , move your butt back over hanging over the back wheel. 70 percent of your braking force is in your front brake.
  • Rear brake. are good in wet slippery conditions
Going up and down Hills
The beginner cyclists may find that going uphill's might be a challenge. But the same with everything once you get a bit more experienced at cycling you will have actually have no problems when deal with hills.What goes up must come down Going downhill is al ot easier.

  • Uphills. When Cycling uphill learn to use the gears correctly. When approaching the hill build up your speed using the highest gear get some momentum up, then change into lower gear just as you start going up the hill. It’s also good to o pace yourself don't burn yourself out too soon into the climb
  • Downhills.Going down downhill is a lot easier but many beginners can find it a bit frightening because of the speed.The best way to brake is by quick short bursts of braking. To build up lots of speed to propel you along the flats shift into the big front gear and smallest back gear this will get your speed up quick fast
Give your bike a check over
Want to make sure your bike is in tip-top condition for your daily or weekly rides? Then the best defense against loose components is a thorough pre-ride check. Regular pre-ride checks will help you catch potential problems before they develop into safety hazards. Use this quick and easy bike check to make sure your bike is in a safe condition. It's worthwhile performing this during, or after washing your bike.

Check your brakes.


Your brakes are properly adjusted if they are fully on by the time the brake lever is pulled halfway to the handlebars. If you are able to pull the brake lever closer than that, your brake system may need some attention.

Check the brake pads. There should be plenty of rubber left on the pad when they are about 1mm away from the rim. All brake pads have a line or notches that indicate when the pad needs replacing. If your pads have worn down to the wear line or notches, replace them.

Check for fraying brake cables. This can occur near the cable adjuster or anywhere where they emerge from the outer cable. Make sure it takes only normal pressure to apply the brakes if not this could signify a frayed or stiff cable.

If you have V-brakes, you should note that the extra stopping power comes at a cost, the brakes wear faster than the old models. Also, check to make sure the brakes are even on both sides of the rim. If not, they may need a slight adjustment.

Check your handlebars and stem for cracks.

Make sure the handlebars are level and the stem lines up with the front wheel.

Check your tyres and rims

Check the tyres for cuts and wear
. Excess wear can decrease grip and increase your chances of sliding out on turns. Keep your tyres inflated to the recommended pressure. Spin the wheels while watching the gap between the rim and the brake shoe. If the rim has a noticeable wobble or an up-and-down movement, the rim needs to be trued.

Check your Cranks

Holding one crank still with one hand, see if you can move the other one. If you can, the crank bolt needs tightening.

Grasping the ends of both cranks, try to move them sideways. If they move an equal amount to the left and right, it means the bottom bracket is loose.
Lift the chain off the chain-rings so that the cranks can be easily turned. Then rotate the cranks to see if the bottom bracket needs attention.

Make sure the cranks and chain rings are both straight by looking from above. Check that all the chain ring bolts are tight using an Allen key. Make sure the pedals revolve freely.

Check your Hubs

Grab the wheel at the top and see if it wobbles side to side. If there is noticeable play, the hubs need to be adjusted. Now spin the wheel. If you hear a grinding noise or if the wheel feels rough as it spins, the bearings may need to be repacked or the hub casing replaced.

Check your Gears

Check that the gear changes are quick and accurate. Turn the pedals as you shift through the gears. As you shift, the chain should transfer smoothly from gear to gear.
Check the cable on the rear derailleur near the cable anchor bolt and wiggle the rubber pulleys to see if they are worn.

Check the front derailleur cable for fraying; making sure the chain cage is parallel to the chain. There should be a 6mm gap between the chain cage and the chain ring

Check your Chain

Weak or bent chain links can take the fun right out of a ride. Rotate the cranks backward and watch the links as they pass over the rear derailleur pulley wheels. This is the area where the chain makes its tightest turns; the bad links will hitch a little as they pass. You can loosen the links that stick by flexing the chain laterally with your fingers. Run the chain through again. If it still hitches, you may have a bad link that requires repair.

Check your Frame and Headset

Look the frame over for cracks. Also, use the front brake to hold the bike still while you rock the bike back and forth. Any noticeable play means the headset needs to be adjusted. Check the seat post clamp bolts and the saddle clamp are tight. Don't over tighten so that you do not damage the threads.
This is just a quick, simple check.
 
Before you hit the road lmao , bad choice of words indeed
i am sure many will find that information rather quite useful
 
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